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When picking out the right bathtub you should know…

Most homes have more than one bathroom so you may want to make one room a special bathroom with a bathtub that fits your needs.

There are many kinds of bathtubs. Therefore, you may want to get a proposal done so you know that the bathtub will work to fit your needs. This choice it won’t be a waste of time and money. You’ll know if it will fit, and whether you will have to redo the tub. In some instances, bathrooms are the smallest rooms in the house so you may want to make the bathtub work for that room. If not maybe, you will want to add onto the room to make it larger so that the bathtub will work for your needs.

How do I know what size of a bathtub to get?

Bathtubs come in all sizes; small to very large it depends on your needs. You want to consider if you want to use your bathtub for a guestroom, master bath, etc. Bathtubs come in a variety of colors so you can’t decide on what shades to fit your needs, until you explore the texture, tone, and trend of your room.

Should I choose a bathtub or shower and what accessories should I consider?
There are many different reasons that a person would choose a bathtub. I like a tub, since you can relax. Other people would take a shower over a bathtub. However, here are some reasons why you may like a bathtub.

You can use a bathtub to soak your body after long hard day at work. It will help you relax your whole body. Put in some bubbles, maybe play some soft music, and just enjoy it. Maybe you would like to read a book and light a few candles.

A bathtub can give you options, since you can add bathroom accessories, such as flora, candles, toys, etc to fill in the gaps. Bathtubs give you the option of using the arena for other special occasions, i.e. you can add a sauna or hot tub in the tub. In addition, you can give your pet a bath in a tub.

How should I choose a bathtub?

When selecting a bathtub for personal use you want to make sure you consider comfort first. Therefore, the dimension, shape, and deepness are something you want to consider. Maybe you will want to get a bathtub made for two people so you and your spouse can take a romantic bath together, perhaps light some candles, turn on some soft music, etc. Don’t forget to add the bubbles, since it adds a nice touch. You both will enjoy the romantic evening together. Then again, perhaps you just want to melt achoice the stress alone.

What are the applied sciences?

A person with a smaller frame may not feel comfortable in larger tubs. Perhaps, the person would enjoy a tub that is low rather than unfathomable ones. On the other hand, a larger person may enjoy profundity while soaking in a tub. It really depends on what you are searching to complete.

How do I choose the right size?

The archetypal bathtubs are somewhere around fourteen inches widthwise and somewhere around seventeen inches unfathomable. European baths are available with a depth around eighteen inches. Still, you can find deeper bottoms.

How do I choose design?

Bathtubs are designed and crafted with many types of materials. The china styles for example, make up the stall acrylic and fiberglass. Gel veneers balance the composites of marble and the cast-iron.

We have to admit the fact that we spend a lot of money in order to make the interior of our home beautiful. In fact, getting drywall installed alone can cost you hundreds of dollars not to mention the fact that you get it finished and textured, which will eventually make you spend more money. This is why water damage on drywall can be a very serious problem.

If you have a drywall that is water damaged, then there is a great chance that it happened because of leak from the pipes or also because of flooding. It can also be caused by leaks on your roof where rain water enters your home and eventually make its choice to the drywall.

The good news is that drywall water damage is easy to repair. So, just how do you do it?

The first thing that you have to do is to determine where the leak is coming from. You have to remember that when fixing a water damaged drywall, you have to first fix the problem that caused it in the first place. In this case, you have to look for the source of the leak which caused the water damage on your drywall.

You have to keep in mind that nothing is more frustrating than getting the drywall fixed only to have the leak return and damage your newly fixed drywall again.

Now that you fixed the leak, the next step is to cut a hole in to the wet drywall in order to begin air circulation. This can be done with the help of a strong fan and it is also highly recommended that you use a dehumidifier in order to reduce moisture content on the air inside the room where the water damaged drywall is located.

It is very important that you should monitor the drying process closely in order for you to make sure that the drying process is complete. By not completing the drying process properly, you will end up growing mold on the wall within 24 to 48 hours. If this happens, get a mold restoration professional to help in removing the mold. It is crucial that you should not touch the mold as touching it can only lead to the fast spreading of the mold around your home.

Now, after everything is already dry, you can now replace the drywall and any studs that were water damaged. You may need to get a plywood backer if you cut a large hole in order to secure the drywall you mount to cover the hole.

Nail in the patch of water resistant drywall to the backer board and place joint compound over the joints. Allow it to dry and then sand the joint compound for a smooth finish.

After that, you can now tape the joint with the drywall tape where the drywall comes together with the existing wall. Once the edges are smooth, it’s time for you to paint the area in order to match the color to the rest of the wall.

These are basically how you can fix a water damaged drywall. By following these tips, you will be able to repair water damaged drywall in your home and also do so with a professional looking finish.

Well, Ive been pretty busy building some pens and have sold a few so that helps out. I recently bought a new flat panel LED TV so now I need to build a new stand for it. I want to build a stand that the TV will stand on, but that also has room to hold my receiver, cable box, Xbox, PS3 and DVDs/Games. So, one day I decided to browse through the Pottery Barn catalog and see what they had and found exactly what I was looking for:
http://www.potterybarn.com/products/hudson-large-media-console/?pkey=cmedia-stand-flat-screen-display

This design is exactly what I need; TV sits on top, there is room for all the accessories as well as media storage on the sides. I also like that you can close the whole thing up if you want, when not in use. This will be the first cabinet Ive built that has pocket doors too so that should be interesting.

This piece is going to be made out of Walnut, which I havent used since my first piece which was the blanket chest, so Im looking forward to that. Since Christmas is just a few days away, and New Years just after that, Im not exactly sure when I will get started, but I may buy the wood after Christmas so that it can acclimate in the shop and then I can get started right after the new year; should be a nice way to ring in the new year! So join me around that time frame for the design and build along. Im always eager to learn so input is always welcome!

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you and your family!

Be Safe!

Friday I finished my DIY glass pane mirror and I am in love with the finished result!


Like I mentioned on Friday, we decided to hang it in the guest room above the desk (from the master bedroom) and moved the coral dresser next to the closet (I plan to also turn this into my sewing/diy room)

Heres how we did it ... (with a few tweaks of what I wish we would of done to make it faster)


We took apart this 80s chandelier (in EVERY thrift shop) and removed all the metal from the slanted glass panes.

Our chandelier had 16 (7.25” long and 5.75” at the widest point) slanted glass panes - we used 15. The finished mirror was 28.75” in diameter with 1/4" spacing between the panes.


1/2 sheet of 3/8" plywood (Ace Hardware lets you buy 1/2 a sheet)
Paint
Weldbond glue
Jewelry wire
Melamine edging
15" round mirror
Grout
Rub n Buff

We laid out the glass panes in a circle on a piece of plywood slightly larger - since our panes wouldnt work without a gap, we gradually adjusted until the spacing was equal (about 1/4" between each)


Once all the panes were equal, we marked all of the corners and outer edges so that we could easily line it back up and for the outer cut.

 
We painted the panes before this step, but I wish I would of done it after, since moving them around removed some of the paint, and touch ups were needed.

After the panes were marked, David cut out the plywood back following our outer pencil marks with the jigsaw and then sanded the edges.



We used an airbrush (we have this one), since we wanted to use the same paint that we used on the chandelier - BM Bali - Spray painting would work great too! (prior to painting, make sure to tape off the front to avoid over spray)

Next, our mirror selection ... 

We ended up getting a 15" round 1/8" thick mirror cut at a local glass shop to slightly overlap the glass panes since getting it cut to meet the 15 angles created by the glass panes would be hard to get precise, and very costly!

Instead, David cut 1/8" pieces (any shape will work since it is covered) of lauane with the chop saw (slightly smaller than the panel) to glue to the back of the glass so that the glass panels would fit just over the mirror and be flat, rather than tilted (tip: ask for a scrap piece of 1/8" board, we got ours for a whopping .25 from Ace Hardware)


These were glued on the back of the painted glass panel with Weldbond glue - our paint looked discolored for about 24 hrs until it fully dried, but then evened out perfectly!


I glued the mirror with Weldbond glue to the plywood (using the pencil marks that I created earlier to center it)


Then I laid the panels out, applied Weldbond glue to the back side and allowed to a few hours so that they were firmly in place (tip: place heavy objects on the glass to hold it down while drying, I used a few books).

After it dried, I applied grout (like you would tile), but instead I would recommend putting the frame first to avoid redoing work like I did :)


I used rectangular jewelry wire to build the frame for the inside (it was slightly taller than the glass panels) First I laid out the overall shape by bending in the creases and then applied a super glue to secure it (note: to smooth out the wire as you go use something firm - I used a wood putty knife to straighten it by gently pressing against the pane to get it even. I also used tape after the glue was applied to hold in place until dry)


I would of preferred a similar metal strip for the outside, but since I couldnt find one wide enough (and flexible enough) at a local store, I purchased melamine edging, for the outer edge. Mine was too wide so I cut it to the correct width with a ruler and xacto knife. I glued it with the Weldbond glue, but wood glue would of worked fine too. I also used tape to hold it in place while it dried.

Once the outer edges are dry, its time to grout!


Apply the grout as you would to tile, make sure to fill in all of the crevices!


Once the grout is dry, I taped off the glass and mirror and then applied Rub n Buff (I used Antique Gold) over the grout and the trim and then wiped away any exces.

After removing the tape, we used D rings and heavy gauge wire on the back to hang it, since the mirror is very heavy we also applied a little Gorilla Glue in the screw holes for added strength and wire rated for 100 lbs (just to be safe) We then used a drywall anchor like this for the wall that could handle the weight (always look for a stud if possible!)

I did all the finishing touches bent over the floor, I wish I would of used a lazy susan turn table on the table (would of made it much easier!)

and thats it! The mirror ended up at 28.75" in diameter. The perfect size for above the desk in the guest room!



Cost Breakdown and Sources:

Chandelier (already purchased for the drum shade chandelier)
Paint BM Bali (already purchased for drum shade chandelier)
Rub n Buff (already purchased at Michaels)
15" round mirror ------------------- $14 (local glass shop)
Brass Jewelry wire ---------------- $3 (with 50% coupon at Michaels)
Melamine Edging ----------------- $5 (Home Depot)
1/2 sheet 3/8" plywood ----------- $6 (Ace Hardware)
Weldbond glue --------------------- $3 (Micheals)
D Rings ------------------------------$2.50 (Home Depot)
Heavy Gauge wire (already had) 
                                   
Total --------------------------------- $31 

It helped that I already had some of the supplies, but I would say starting from scratch, it could be done for under $50 easily, with supplies left over to make another!

This mirror looks high end for the price (at least I think so :), so be on the hunt for a chandelier with a massive glass shell!

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Update: After hearing from a few people that the glass panes were difficult to remove from the fixture I wanted to mention that our frame was pretty loose and fairly bendable. I have seen ones that are very tight around the glass, so if you would like to try this, I would definitely recommend looking for one that is looser around the glass panes :)